Wat Si Muang is the busiest of the city’s temples and is considered to
be the home to Vientiane’s guardian spirit and the city Pillar.
The name “Si Muang” means Holy City Monastery. The pillar is wrapped in sacred cloths
with a carved wooden stele in front with the Buddha in relief. There are images of Buddha surrounding the pillar, but one in particular is
of interest. This stone carved image sits on a cushion to the left, and is a partially damaged image that survived the damage of the 1828
war.
It is said that this image has the ability to grant wishes, and that
you should lift up the image three times while mentally saying your request. If your wish is granted you are supposed to return with an
offering.
In the front of the temple is a park in which a statue of King
Sisavang Vong resides. The identifying plaque was removed after the 1975 revolution. This is a pleasant place to have a walk and reflect on
this wonderful place.
Haw Pha Kaew is a converted museum, this former Royal temple is
located 100 metres south east of Wat Si Saket. According to the Lao, this
temple was originally built by King Setthathirat in 1565 to commemorate the moving of the Lan Xang capital to Vientiane. King Setthathirat housed the so
called Emerald Buddha (it was originally housed in Luang Prabang, after the Lao stole it from the Siamese in the mid 1500’s) here, and used it
as his own personal place of Worship. In 1779 the Siamese stole the Buddha and installed it in their own temple in Bangkok, where it is today.
In the Siamese-Lao war of 1828, the Siamese razed the Wat to the
ground, and was not rebuilt again until the 1930’s (apparently to the original plans). Haw Pha Kaew is not exactly that impressive, but it does house some of the best examples of Lao Buddha sculptures. Also
housed here are some Khmer relics from the south of the country. Thought no
longer used as a Wat, Thai visitors still worship here and leave offerings so please be respectful.
The Lao National History museum is based in a dilapidated mansion,
originally used as the French governor’s residence, on Thanon Samsen-thai. Most of the museum is dedicated to the Pathet Lao’s struggle for power, and consists of many photographs and artefacts
from that period. Some items are labelled in English, but most are only in Lao. The halls near the entrance to the museum hold geographical and cultural artefacts and have some interesting items.
These include some sandstone Khmer sculptures of Hindu deities and examples of musical instruments. The inner rooms are dedicated to other periods in the country’s recent history. The colonial period,
the independence struggle against France, resistance to American Imperialism, and the fight for Communist victory.
An interesting alternative to the usual sights is to visit the
strangely egotistic Museum of the former Communist leader, Kaysone Phomvihane. Opened in 1995 to celebrate the late president’s 75th birthday, this building is one big tribute to the
former Communist leader. It shows photographs, and details his life from
birth to his death.
Even if you are not interested in the life of a Lao communist leader,
it still has some interesting rooms. The actual memorial is inside the
former CIA compound from which the Secret war was orchestrated. The compound
is just of Route 13 south.
There are quite a lot of things to see and do
within close proximity to Vientiane, and it is easy to do most of the sights in a day
trip. There are three waterfalls nearby, Nam Tok Tat Khu Khana, Nam Tok Tat
Son, and Nam Tok Tat Nam Suang. Local jumbo drivers can take you to these waterfalls, or you can walk (ha, yeah right!).
Off of route 13, which heads east from
Vientiane is Phu Khuay National Park. It is a partially pine-forested plateau at around 670m in elevation. It is the Lao PDR’s only
National park, and was off limits for a long time due to a Lao military base in the region.
The National park is a great place to come, to
escape the sweltering heat of Vientiane in the hot season.
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